can confirm

Sure, I’ll try to practice what I preach. What do you hope to get from this discussion?

As an aside, I don’t disagree with you and am not really arguing any side. I recognized a behavior that anyone would have a blindspot for, and am trying to give friendly feedback. The phrases like “wrong” or “like it or not” are rigid and come off as not open for discussion. I try to use words like “appear” or “seem,” because my observation may be how I’m seeing it and not what you intend. I believe you that you may be trying to have a genuine discussion, but that’s not the tone of the verbiage.

If I had something stuck to my back, I would want someone to point it out to me. I’m trying to do the thing I hope someone else would do for me. This might be a blindspot between your intent and your verbiage. You don’t have to listen to my advice. We can both believe what we want to believe and go separate ways.

I think when you start your response with the word “Wrong… and here’s why,” it seems that you are not open to a genuine discussion. Like iconoclast mentioned, it appears that you are looking for people to agree with your viewpoint and not have a genuine discussion.

Just a suggestion, but if you want people to engage in your question, you could acknowledge what they said first, and then ask your next point in the form of a question. “Wouldn’t that only increase visibility for X? Would it promote the fediverse more to copy the text directly here?”

It sounds like what you’re pointing to is when humans became a more exact time-oriented culture. This was not the case until the invention of mechanical clocks in the 13th century, and town bells began synchronizing everyone. Then pay and efficiency rose, but people began to become more dependent on the concept of “kept time” and probably less “being in the moment” or being a more people- or event-oriented culture.

The podcast episode of Hidden Brain called “The Past is Never Dead” explains this pretty well and I hadnt really thought about what humans did before clocks.

That’s true. I suppose others can benefit from seeing the questions and thought processes.

Side note, I was told this was an Algerian vine, but now that I see you say Pothos and looked that up, it does appear to be a Pothos.

Thanks! And thank you for all of the guidance. I don’t have a greenthumb naturally.

Can you tell if sprouting part of the smallest one is a stem or root? It’s not coming out of the root node so I assume it is a stem. But wouldn’t it want to grow a root first? I can use some bread ties to keep that part out of water.

If you feel comfortable with it, could we connect with Element or SimpleX or your preferred messenger? I’d really love to learn more as I go. I have plans to plant lentils, grape vines, and a Lapins cherry tree. There is just so much information on the Internet that it’s hard to pick a strategy sometimes.

I had it on for a few days straight and it didnt smell at all. But I think to be safe, I’m going to keep it unplugged and then run it for couple of hours each month (with the furnace turned off).

Oh gotcha. Yeah I don’t really have an HVAC person to ask, but I found a few reputable sources on YT and they recommended on the underside of the coils, because that’s where the moisture (and then bacteria) accumulate.

Here is an update on the clippings: https://i.postimg.cc/J06y4xRJ/IMG-3769.jpg

I did end up keeping the blue and purple ones together and seem to be doing well. The smallest one’s leaf turned brown, so I pulled it off. It looks like either a root or leaf is trying to sprout out. Is it okay to keep it submerged without a leaf.

Here are the first ones I had. I let the roots get pretty long and transferred them to vases. I put enough water to get the soil damp and will only plant to water once per week. But do they need more water for the transition from straight water to soil? https://i.postimg.cc/C5PZL7w8/IMG-3770.jpg

Huh, I hadn’t thought about turning the light on for short periods. And if ozone is mostly generated with moving air, then turning the light on with the furnace off seems to be safest. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for pointing that out; I was unaware of that. After educating myself a little, it looks like UV light below about 200nm wavelength generate ozone, but 254nm is the sweet spot for killing microbes. The light I got works at the 254nm wavelength.

The US EPA recommends a concentration of less than 70ppb, Canada 40ppb, and the WHO 30ppb. This model has been tested by the California Air Resources Board at 13ppb.

That’s reassuring, but I’m still looking more into this. Do you have any recommended resources for gaining more insight on ozone generation?

https://www.environics.com/2025/02/17/regulations-ambient-ozone-concentration/

https://www.environics.com/2025/02/17/regulations-ambient-ozone-concentration/

https://bioshielduv.com/products/bioshield-magnetic

Thank you, that makes sense. I did not realize the air all gets forced through like that.

What do you mean by “ before it splits?” I’m still learning a lot, but the general consensus of where to place the UV light was on the bottom side of the A-frame, because that’s where the moisture will accumulate and allow for bacteria and fungus growth.

I ended up drilling a hole and mounting the light right into that end plate, and then drilling another hole in my new access panel for the cord, and putting duct putty around the hole.

My friend finally got back to me and said the same thing. I guess I learned something about furnace coils. I ended up making a compromise and just mounting the light into that end plate.

Rex Krueger, Paul Sellers, and Wood by Wright are all great free options online. My favorite people to follow and I wish I had learned about them sooner are Joshua and Mike with Mortise and Tenon Magazine.

The M&T guys approach woodworking from a more traditional angle, as opposed to starting modern and working backwards. I really enjoy their mix of philosophy references and practicing traditions for crafting by learning from the past.

They have some free YouTube videos that are pretty great; Maybe you could watch those and get a feel for what their style is. If their approach is something that resonates with you, the books Worked and Joined are essentially beginners manuals for traditional hand tool woodworking, in the photos are very helpful. They also have other books and magazine authors that specialize in things such as wood carving, green wood, working, and furniture making. They discussed even Native American woodworking with very basic tools, as well as the French group Carpenters Without Borders that only use axes.

Please let me know if I can help direct you in any other way. I absolutely love that I found hand to woodworking as a craft. It is a lifelong endeavor and so rewarding. The struggles are challenging, but make everything very worthwhile. I honestly feel more grounded and more human, making things with hand tools.

Would you say the red line leaf is worth trying to save with the rest of the sad roots it has now?

I’ll try making those cuts and post a follow-up on how it works out. I’ll probably keep the blue and purple together like you said, but drop the purple if it struggles.

https://i.postimg.cc/65Xn3Fwj/IMG-3581.jpg

Here are the clippings. One more question I guess, do the tops of the clippings’ stems need to be sticking out of the water or is it okay that they are submerged while in water to grow roots? They are just so short, but I suppose I could use bread ties to hold them in position.

https://i.postimg.cc/jSnG8pgk/IMG-3578.jpg

Okay so what would you consider a good leaf? I drew lines where I guessed might be good to cut above. The red on is big and not completely yellow, the blue and purple ones look good but are somewhat close together. The purple one has a root nodule opposite of the leaf/stem connection and one more below it, opposite of the bad leaf I would prune below it, so it would have two nodules, but would it just be better to put the purple and blue together one one cutting? The orange one also has one node opposite and one node below it.

https://i.postimg.cc/kgRkj0YP/IMG-3579.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GmTZMWg1/IMG-3580.jpg

Here is the other one I put in water right away and is doing better. How much do you let the roots grow before putting it in soil? And would you recommend changing the water every 1-2 days? It’s hard to know what advice to listen to.

Thanks for the in-depth reply. I put it in some water and out of the direct sunlight. How can you tell if there is root rot? I’m guessing the moisture control soil must be the kind that retains, because I havent watered it for a few days but it feels slightly damp.

How can I tell if there is enough root to support the plant? And if I trim it back to a leaf node, do I include a leaf?

Here are some pictures of the root and leaf node: https://i.postimg.cc/CLKyzxD2/IMG-3572.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/m2KdBLS2/IMG-3573.jpg

A few days ago. I’m trying not to do too much at once but I don’t want to wait if it needs a change. The person I got it from said to just try the roots in a glass of water for a few days and then transfer to soil with not too much water if it looks better.

Yeah, I agree with that philosophy. Like someone else said, there are many ways to go about security. I guess I’m just looking for leads on what others have seen as worthwhile, and then try to understand those before I do them.