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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: September 21st, 2023

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  • But why?

    See, I was taught this, but no one could every answer why sine and cosine worked the way they did.

    This definition just explains how they work with triangles. What’s the actual definition of each, and how was that derived? I can apply them all day long yet I still can’t tell you what either one means.

    I had the same issues with different kinds of equations, no one ever explained why you’d do a certain thing in a given step (e.g. Quadratic) even when I asked, repeatedly. The answer was always “you just do”. Well that doesn’t help with knowing when to apply a rule.

    And that was my experience with any math, right through college (3 universities). Most teachers suck, but holy shit math teachers are down right moronic. They can’t understand why students don’t get it. Well, try actually teaching something for a fucking change.





  • I don’t think a 1000 is any more a right hand risk than a 600.

    I’ve had both, and the 600 will accelerate as much as a 1000, it just won’t have the top speed.

    The 1000 is much more challenging to ride safely in my experience, not because of power, but because of its weight and (usually) a higher center of mass - so they typically take more effort to maneuver/maneuver well.

    Though a lot depends on the type of bike, largely the rake angle which really influences the effort required to steer, and it also affects low speed stability.

    For me, going to a 1000 was about long ride comfort and 2-up riding. Two up on a 600, even the more cruiser-like bikes, just isn’t as comfortable. There’s less room, pillion footpegs are more cramped, etc. But the price paid is the effort to ride it.

    It really depends on the bike. If I were OP, I’d look for the features I want and not worry about engine size so much. If it happens that what I want comes with a 1000, so be it. Just take the time to learn to ride that bike well.

    Decades ago I found the top speed of my small bike (I forget, maybe a 450?). It would’ve killed me just as fast as taking my 1000 to the same speed (which I simply don’t do).


  • Very good points.

    I was an aggressive driver as a teen. What changed it (surprisingly) was getting a bike. Suddenly the risks became way more apparent. And the performance of a bike made driving a car fast seem pointless. Even moderate acceleration on the bike was far more than being in a car.

    Of course that was my experience. But getting a bike did settle down my driving tremendously. Since it’s literally my ass on the line, I became acutely aware of everything.

    Part of that was taking a class, where they make the risks very apparent.












  • I get the thinking (because it’s my first thought too), but the basic force formula (F=M*V^2), means velocity is the greatest influence on Force.

    So braking from the higher speed will result in a greater force, meaning more energy dissipation.

    I think. Maybe there’s something I’m missing here, like including the time to convert that energy to heat via the brakes. Perhaps in the end it’s all the same (braking early and keeping speed down), since we’re always converting the energy imparted by gravity to heat.


  • Depends on conditions.

    Traditionally potatoes were harvested in fall (just before the first freeze) and stored in a root cellar with stable, cool temps (above about 45) and moderate humidity (IIRC, between 40-60%), and well stacked (good airflow between them, like with straw or even in bushel baskets. I’ve read storing them in sand is a great way to stabilize moisture loss.

    Stored like this they last all winter. They tend to dry out some, get soft and wrinkly, but completely fine to eat.

    My root cellar is low humidity and a little warmer, so at 3 months they’re a little dry and wrinkly. I’ve never, ever had mold on potatoes. Mold is a result of high humidity and no air flow.

    They do require attention while stored - like other fruits and veg, if one goes bad it’ll affect the others.